Artisanal Intelligence: if one had to encapsulate TOD’s philosophy in two words, these would probably be the words. The same words inspired the recent spring/summer 2025 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week. Today, when everyone talks about innovation and Artificial Intelligence, appreciating the individual and ‘handmade’ products still drives TOD’s brand philosophy. A brand whose history began when, in the early 20th century, Filippo Della Valle decided to open a small shoe workshop that he ran with passion and commitment, passing on his art to his children along with codes of style and quality that have been the essence of the group’s products ever since.
TOD’s: the birth of a star
Filippo’s nephew, Diego Della Valle, enrolled in law school but, after a few exams, decided to take a marketing course in the United States. He took over the family business in 1979 and launched the women’s shoe brand ‘Diego Della Valle’.
The creation and launch of the TOD’s brand dates back to 1984, and it seems that the name s was chosen by Della Valle while leafing through the telephone directory during a trip to Boston. J.P Tod’s seemed to Della Valle to be a name that suited the brand he had in mind: short, easy to pronounce, always the same in all languages, solid and imposing.
It also seems that Della Valle noticed the pilot’s loafers on a flight back from the United States and thought of repurposing the structure of the loafers’ soles, with the now-famous rubber grommets initially designed to make it easier for drivers, making it a distinctive element. These consist of 133 small rubber spheres produced through a lengthy, mostly manual process that requires around 100 working steps. This peculiarity and the high-quality materials chosen by Della Valle soon made TOD’s shoes an object of desire for VIPs worldwide: from Antonio Banderas to Michael Douglas, Claudia Schiffer to Cindy Crawford.
The new brands: Hogan and Fay
The following year, 1985, saw the birth of the Hogan brand and, with it, the concept of luxury trainers: a skilful mix of urban elegance and sporty inspiration, which would mark a trend of the 1990s and immediately show strong international appeal.
The 1980s also saw the origins of another iconic brand, Fay. When Diego and Andrea Della Valle discovered the work jackets of Maine firefighters, they recognised their potential. They took over the Fay brand, specialising in technical clothing for fishermen and firefighters, and transformed workwear into iconic garments for everyday use. Thus, the iconic four-hook jackets were launched, soon joined by an entire collection of elegant and exclusive clothing.
Products that become icons
Over time, new product lines enriched TOD’s offer: the G-bag, for example, immediately became a style icon chosen by international film stars such as Kate Winslet and Julia Roberts.
In 1998, the group opened a new headquarters in Sant’Elpidio al Mare and was listed on the stock exchange in 2000. In 2003, the company managed the Roger Vivier shoe brand under licence. Roger Vivier invented the first stiletto heel in the 1950s and was known for his extravagant and original designs. The Roger Vivier brand was definitively acquired in 2016. In 2019, a new factory was opened near Arquata del Tronto, in an area devastated by the earthquake only a few years earlier. Today, this factory – which initially employed 50 people – is being redeveloped to double its workforce.
The group continues to grow: 2023 was an excellent year, with turnover of EUR 1,126 million, up 11.9% from 2022. The positive trend affected all brands, which all recorded double-digit growth over the past year. Plans for the future revolve around the sustainability of products and processes.
Congratulations to those who bring Made in Italy style all over the world!
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